Scrape or wire brush off heavy deposits. If necessary, clean object with a biodegradable detergent prior to treatment
Chelant based concentrate MUST be mixed with water, or it will not remove rust. The chemical is activated by the addition of water. Do not make the mistake of using Concentrate straight out of the bottle. If you have hard water, using distilled or softened water will improve the effectiveness of the solution
Ready-To-Use fluid is used right out of the bottle, no mixing required
Chelant type rust remover works very well at ambient room temperature, however for more rapid rust removal we recommend using the solution at a temperature above 70 degrees F. The fluid can be heated up to, but not exceeding 150 degrees F. This may be accomplished using immersion heaters or similar.
Use either plastic or stainless steel containers, tanks or other vessels. Galvanized containers will not work since it will remove the galvanized coating. Steel or cast iron containers may already have contaminants, rust or other deposits that will shorten the life. Pour a sufficient amount of properly mixed rust remover to completely cover the rusted object. For lightly rusted steel or cast iron, try mixing the concentrate 10 to 1. this means 1-gallon of Concentrate to 9 gallons of water. For heavily rusted items, mix it 5 to 1. This is 1-gallon of Concentrate to 4 gallons of water.
A small circulating pump can be used to circulate the otherwise stagnant fluid within the container to speed the rust removal process. The slow movement keeps fresh fluid in contact with the rust at all times. If there are rusted surfaces on the object which will rest on the bottom of the container, try hanging or supporting the object so the Rust remover is able to get to the rust. Leave it in for 10 to 30 minutes for light rust, or up to 6 to 24 hours for extremely heavy rust. When finished, rinse with water. If rust remains in pits, re-submerge item until all rust is gone.
When all rust is removed, rinse thoroughly with water. If a soft, slippery black residue remains, brush off with a soft bristle brush or wipe off with a lint free cloth while rinsing with water.
This solution will NOT leave any type of a phosphorous coating after the derusting process. There will be nothing to interfere between your finish coat and the steel or cast iron. This means superior adhesion, in fact, the best adhesion you can possibly achieve. The object will no longer be protected from rusting either, therefore, precautions must be taken to prevent "flash rusting". Either the piece may be finish coated with primer and paint, powder coating, electroplating, bluing, etc.
If you prefer not to finish coat right away, or perhaps you have an entire assembly to complete first. You may use a long-term Indoor use rust preventative designed to be applied after removing rust. When finished, unused product can be saved by simply covering the container. Water may evaporate out of the solution, but no active chemical is lost. If evaporation occurs, simply add the equivalent amount of water that was lost.
The concentrate has a shelf life of seven years and counting. It can be reused until the fluid turns absolutely jet black, like really black used motor oil, the point when you can no longer see an object just under the surface.
The rust remover will remove firearm finishes such as bluing, parkerizing, zinc phosphate and browning. Paint, powder coating, chrome, nickel, anodizing, etc. will not be removed.
High carbon steel and tool alloy steel items, when de-rusted, may have a darker appearance. Cast iron or steel may exhibit discoloration in certain areas due to variations in ferrous content throughout the object. Some discoloration may be due to staining from chemicals, etc. early in an objects life.
Simple, inexpensive 'off-the-shelf' items can be used to remove rust from a variety of large, odd shaped objects. The rust remover is simply held in a containment vessel, pumped over the object, recaptured in the vessel and the cycle is repeated.
Containment vessels: May consist of, but are not limited to: plastic tarps with built up sand or earthen berms, large plastic or stainless steel tanks, plastic sheeting to guide the fluid back into a smaller plastic bin, tank, etc.
Pumps: Virtually any pump can be utilized. If it can pump water it will work. Inexpensive pumps can be purchased from hardware stores, plumbing stores, etc. They just need to be able to pump well enough (and high enough) to allow the fluid to run over the object.
Hose: Any type of hose will work.
Sprayers: Any type of sprayer, shower head or even perforated pipe will work. The purpose is merely to keep it flowing over the object. YOU DO NOT NEED PRESSURE. The fluid simply has to cascade over the object.
Pump the properly mixed remover over the object. Inverted or vertical surfaces can have the spray or shower directed upwards or sideways to simply keep the surface wet. Periodically check to see if it is finished by rinsing off portions with water.
Final treatment is the same as immersion method.